Sunday, October 22, 2017

The BEST Slab Boulder Problem in the Adirondacks?

  In a recent post I mentioned a stellar slab problem that was recently established at the Snowy Mountain Boulders by Neil Schoppman.  I don't personally know Neil but was familiar with his problem because a mutual climbing friend had shown me pictures from this past spring when Neil began cleaning and attempting the slab on toprope.  When I revisited the boulders in early October, I was blown away at how awesome the slab looked in it's clean and chalked up state.  A few days prior to my visit, Neil had succeeded in grabbing the first ascent of what I would argue is the best slab boulder problem in the Adirondack Park.  If you thought that Giant Sucker (V2) at McKenzie Pond was difficult or scary or that Samurai Slab (V6) at Snowy Mountain was difficult, then you are in for a treat with this new problem which has been named Sexual Nightmares (V6) by Schoppman. 

  Altogether it took me two sessions to complete this problem for the second ascent.  Those two sessions involved a bunch of falls high off of the deck (15-20 ft) on what I consider to be the crux moves.  I also spend a fair amount of time rope soloing the upper moves to help gain a level of confidence on the crux moves seeing as I was bouldering alone without any spotters and an ankle or leg injury could have proved to be troublesome alone in the woods.

  I hope my video does this problem justice...it truly is a stellar boulder problem.  Great vision and great addition to the Adirondack Bouldering scene Mr. Schoppman!  Good on ya

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